A knife blade's grind — the cross-sectional shape of the blade where it tapers to the edge — is arguably the most important factor in how well it cuts. You can have the best steel in the world, but a poorly chosen grind will leave it performing like a butter knife.
This guide explains the four most common blade grinds you'll find on EDC folding knives: hollow grind, flat grind, saber grind, and chisel grind. We'll cover how each affects cutting performance, edge retention, sharpening, and durability — and which grinds pair best with the steels used by Kizer, CIVIVI, Vosteed, and CJRB.
What Is a Blade Grind?
A blade grind refers to how the blade material is removed (ground) from the flat stock to form the cutting edge. The grind determines:
- How thin the blade is behind the edge — the most important factor for cutting performance
- How strong the edge is — thicker grinds resist chipping but cut poorly
- How easy the knife is to sharpen — some grinds are much easier to maintain
- How the knife feels in use — wedging vs slicing
The grind is defined by where the bevel starts on the blade and the shape of the cross-section from the spine to the edge.
Hollow Grind
A hollow grind is created by grinding the blade against a large-diameter wheel, creating a concave (inward-curving) bevel from the spine to the edge. The result is an extremely thin edge with a distinctive "dished" look on each side.
Characteristics:
- Cross-section: Concave, like a shallow "U"
- Edge thickness: Very thin — the thinnest of all common grinds
- Primary use: Straight razors, hunting knives, slicing-focused EDC
- Strength: Low — the thin edge is prone to chipping
Pros:
- Exceptional slicing performance — hollow-ground edges push through material with minimal resistance
- Easy to sharpen to a razor edge
- Ideal for push-cutting and skinning
Cons:
- Weak edge geometry — chips more easily than any other grind
- Difficult to reprofile if damaged
- Not suitable for hard-use or EDC tasks involving lateral stress
Best for: Dedicated slicers, straight razors, hunting knives. You'll find hollow grinds on some traditional and gentleman's folders, but rarely on modern EDC knives from Kizer or CIVIVI.
Flat Grind
A flat grind (sometimes called a "V-grind") runs a straight, flat bevel from the spine (or near it) all the way down to the cutting edge. It's the most common grind on modern EDC folding knives for good reason.
Characteristics:
- Cross-section: Straight V-shape
- Edge thickness: Thin to medium — a full flat grind can be very thin behind the edge
- Primary use: General-purpose EDC, all-around cutting
- Strength: Good balance of slicing and durability
Types of flat grind:
Full Flat Grind (FFG) — The bevel runs from the spine to the edge. This produces the thinnest edge for the blade thickness and is the gold standard for cutting performance on modern folders. Most premium Kizer, CIVIVI, and Vosteed knives use a full flat grind.
High Flat Grind — The bevel starts high on the blade but leaves a small flat section near the spine. Slightly stronger than full flat, slightly less slicey.
Low Flat Grind — The bevel starts lower, leaving more blade thickness behind the edge. Stronger but cuts with more resistance.
Pros:
- Excellent all-around cutting performance
- Thin behind the edge for good slicing
- Stronger than hollow grind
- Easy to sharpen and maintain
- Works well with most blade steels
Cons:
- Not as aggressive a slicer as hollow grind
- Full flat grind can feel fragile on very thin blades
Best for: Everyday carry. If you only own one knife, a flat grind is the most versatile choice. The Kizer Begleiter 2.9 and CIVIVI Bo Flipper are excellent examples of flat-ground EDC knives.
Saber Grind
A saber grind starts the bevel lower on the blade, typically around the middle, leaving the upper portion of the blade at full stock thickness. It's essentially a flat grind that only covers part of the blade height.
Characteristics:
- Cross-section: Thick upper blade with a flat bevel near the edge
- Edge thickness: Thicker behind the edge than full flat grind
- Primary use: Hard-use, tactical, and heavy-duty knives
- Strength: High — the thick blade resists bending and chipping
Pros:
- Very strong edge geometry
- Excellent for hard-use cutting and prying-adjacent tasks
- Blade maintains stiffness under heavy load
- More durable edge that resists rolling and chipping
Cons:
- Poor slicing performance — the thick blade wedges through material
- Heavier than flat grind knives
- More resistant when cutting thick materials
Best for: Heavy-duty and tactical knives. You'll see saber grinds on some WE Knife models designed for hard use, and on many budget knives where a full flat grind would compromise strength.
Chisel Grind
A chisel grind is ground on only one side of the blade — the other side remains flat. This creates an asymmetric edge that's extremely sharp but cuts with a natural bias to one side.
Characteristics:
- Cross-section: One flat side, one ground side (like a chisel)
- Edge thickness: Very thin at the edge
- Primary use: Specialized tasks, some Japanese knives, micro-bevels
- Strength: Moderate — the asymmetric geometry concentrates force
Pros:
- Extremely sharp edge — the thin geometry cuts aggressively
- Easy to sharpen (only one side to grind)
- Unique cutting characteristics appreciated by enthusiasts
Cons:
- Cuts with a bias (the knife pulls to one side)
- Difficult for most users to sharpen correctly
- Not common on mainstream EDC knives
Best for: Specialized cutting tasks. You won't find many chisel-grind EDC knives from CIVIVI, Kizer, or Vosteed — the format is more common on kitchen knives and some traditional Japanese woodworking tools.
Grind and Steel: How They Work Together
The blade grind and the steel type need to complement each other. Here's how:
| Steel Type | Best Grind | Why |
|---|---|---|
| High-hardness (M390, S90V, S35VN) | Full flat or high flat | These steels are wear-resistant but can be brittle. A thin flat grind maximizes cutting performance while the steel's hardness resists edge rolling. |
| Mid-range (Nitro-V, 14C28N, AR-RPM9) | Full flat or saber | These steels balance toughness and hardness. A full flat grind works well; saber grind adds strength if you're hard on knives. |
| Budget (8Cr13MoV, 9Cr18MoV, D2) | Saber or low flat | Lower-hardness steels benefit from a slightly thicker grind to prevent edge deformation. This is common on budget CJRB and entry-level CIVIVI models. |
The trend in modern EDC is toward thinner grinds with better steels. A full flat grind in S35VN or M390 outperforms a saber grind in budget steel for virtually every cutting task. This is why Kizer's mid-range and premium lines — the Drop Bear, Begleiter 2.9, and Feist 3 — all use full flat grinds.
Edge Geometry and Performance
Beyond the grind shape, two measurements matter:
Behind-the-edge (BTE) thickness: This is the blade thickness measured just above the cutting edge bevel. A 0.010" BTE cuts dramatically better than a 0.025" BTE, regardless of grind type. Full flat grinds achieve the thinnest BTE for a given blade stock thickness.
Edge angle: Most EDC knives come with a 17-20° per side edge angle. A hollow grind can handle a lower angle (15°) for extreme slicing. A saber grind needs a higher angle (20-25°) to prevent chipping.
Which Grind Should You Choose for EDC?
Pick a Full Flat Grind if:
- You want the best all-around cutting performance
- You carry a knife for everyday tasks (boxes, cord, food prep, packages)
- Your knife uses a premium steel that can handle a thin edge
- You own knives from Kizer, CIVIVI, or Vosteed — most of their EDC lineups use full flat grinds
Pick a Saber Grind if:
- You need durability over slicing for heavy tasks
- Your budget knife uses a softer steel that needs edge support
- You're buying an entry-level knife and plan to abuse it
Pick a Hollow Grind if:
- You want maximum slicing aggression and don't mind fragility
- You're buying a gentleman's knife, traditional folder, or straight razor
FAQ
What is the most common blade grind on EDC knives?
The full flat grind is the most common on modern EDC knives from brands like Kizer, CIVIVI, Vosteed, and ArtisanCutlery. It offers the best balance of slicing performance and edge durability.
Is a hollow grind better than a flat grind?
Hollow grinds cut more aggressively but are much weaker. For general EDC use, a full flat grind is better — it cuts well while remaining durable enough for daily tasks.
Can I sharpen a chisel grind on both sides?
No — chisel grinds should only be sharpened on the ground side. Sharpening the flat side changes the geometry and ruins the grind. Mark the ground side so you don't forget.
Why are saber grinds common on budget knives?
Saber grinds keep more blade thickness behind the edge, which compensates for softer or less heat-treated steels that would deform with a thinner grind. It's a cost-effective way to make a durable edge on budget materials.
Does blade grind affect edge retention?
Yes — indirectly. A thinner grind (full flat, hollow) produces less cutting resistance, which means the edge experiences less stress during cutting. Thicker grinds (saber) wedge more, creating more friction and potentially dulling faster. However, steel composition and heat treatment are the primary factors in edge retention.
Final Thoughts
Blade grind is one of the most underrated aspects of knife performance. While steel type and heat treatment get most of the attention, the grind determines how that steel actually performs in the real world.
For most EDC users, a full flat grind in a quality steel like Nitro-V, S35VN, or M390 is the ideal combination. It's what you'll find on the best-selling knives from Kizer, CIVIVI, and Vosteed — and it's why those knives cut so well out of the box.
If you're curious about how blade geometry interacts with other knife features, check out our guides on lock mechanisms and steel comparisons to complete your EDC education.